Acai I Love You

Paraty Historic Center Roads

You literally can't move quickly on these roads. This town forces you to take it slow and easy. Love.

Travelers.

As time passes on the road you realize that people can be bucketed by two main categories: Where they are in their trip (Traveler Life Cycle) and what kind of trip they’re on (Trip Style).  Traveler Life Cycle is pretty easy: people either just started, are about to finish, or are close to the middle of their trips - this doesn’t really apply to folks who aren’t gone for more than a month. Trip Style is a little different. People are on Big Bad Around the World Trips (BBAWTs), or are Aggressive Niche Travelers (ANTs), or on Typical Corporate Holidays (TCHs), or Post-Uni Gap Years (PUGYs), or are Long-Term Underemployed/Traveler (LUTs), or Structurally Travel-Life Focused (STLFs), & some are just Hobos (HOBOS). All these people come at travel from totally different perspectives given their Traveler Life Cycle and Trip Style. It’s really fun to try and understand where people are on these spectrums and how that might influence some of the interactions we end up having. Here are some examples of folks:

You meet the guy from Australia who just left home on a six-month around the world journey (BBAWT). He’s the least jaded guy in the group, probably the most well read on the current location and well overall pretty much bursting with joy to share that he’s on the trip of a lifetime. He’s probably still wearing freshly laundered clothes, and might even be showering daily. It’s like a drug being around these folks, bursting with energy and anticipation for the joys, confusion and wow-moments they have in front of them. I can’t get enough of it, particularly now at month seven.

You meet the super young guy from Brazil who might just be on his first trip abroad and is SO excited about everything he sees (PUGY), it’s as if every corner, every little thing most jaded travelers would take for granted is like a gift to this kid. He’s walking around with a goofy grin all the time. It’s pure joy. He’s the guy who is wowed by the pretty standard architecture at the mall. Hanging out with him is a joy, you look at things with new found wonder and hope; and just in general feel like it’s all possible. Even a boring afternoon in Santiago, Chile is in fact someone’s best day ever. And you get to have as many of those as you want.

You meet someone squeezing in a little travel before settling in to a new life abroad (STLF). The travel is exciting but there is anticipation and hope for life in a new country that drives their approach to travel. They’re kind of jealous of the folks bouncing around the planet with no real expectations of where they might be in a month. They’re the one who reminds everyone after re-telling in-country battle scar stories (e.g. Can you imagine having to deal with this plumbing all.the.time.), that they actually live here now. And at that moment, everyone’s a little jealous that they’re taking the plunge and living abroad semi-permanently.

You meet the guy who’s totally obnoxious about everything (STLF). Only to find out they’ve done a bunch of amazing volunteering with their last four months, and its only one in a series of altruistic travels, over the course of a lifetime.

You meet someone who works half the year to travel the other half. In a career where that could be considered totally crazy (STLF). She’s the one plotting her next continent for later on this year. (Who am I kidding we’re all plotting our next continent while on the road)

You meet the guy or gal who just shames everyone with their travel stories (STLF). Yeah they spent two years in Africa, yeah they’ve motorbiked across South America, yeah they’ve lived in SE Asia, Of course they’ve climbed Killi, and they’ve just come back from a few months studying tribes in Papau New Gieau. Everyone pretends to like this person, but we all hate them. “Omg, I can’t believe all you’ve done, that’s totally wild.” Actual Meaning: “Stop showing off, I bet you’ll never have the bowel movements of a normal human again."

You meet someone about to go home after a long journey through South America. They’re on the next plane back to America or Europe or Australia. They’re a little sad that it’s over, but they’re souls are overflowing with amazing energy, tough moments and brilliant descriptions of what they’ve seen on the road. Usually, these folks make me the happiest, I see them with their travel experience cups floweth over, their hearts filled, and their souls content.  They’ve been out here and have DONE SOMETHING. It doesn’t matter how it went or what exactly they did. But they did it. On their own. Weathering some rather pragmatic headwinds to make it happen. They leave excited to return home, knowing that it’ll be bittersweet. But that they’ll be back on the road when it makes sense for them. And that they go home better, richer, and maybe even a little wiser.

You meet people who you can’t believe have been on the road this long. (2 years!) Or that plan to do some outlandish things (Bicycle to the end of the world from the States and then up through Africa to Europe). You meet people having some rather normalish holidays. You meet people who are sweeping in for a long weekend in Buenos Aires.

You meet people everyday while you’re on the road. And everyday you meet someone who’s bringing unique energy and enthusiasm to this travel life.

It’s a glorious thing. Because out here. On the road. Those are the only people we have. People that are pumped about what they’re doing or just did or about to do. And, it’s addictive, that energy. That vibe. That enthusiasm. Sometimes I catch myself just kind of starring off as someone is talking, thinking about how thankful I am to be hanging out with folks that are truly where they’re supposed to be. And that’s out here, on the road. And it’s kind of amazing.

I guess the point is you meet people. And they remind you that life is beautiful. That the world is huge and weird. And they we can twirl our way through it however we damn well please.

Why do I Hike?

So, I grew up pretty isolated from "Nature." My idea of roughing it while growing up was going to the beach for the day and being without air con for more than four consecutive hours in the blistering Miami summer. My family loved the beach, so we did this a bunch, but it wasn't like even this version of "Nature" was part of my day-to-day existence. We were, and mostly still are, city people. Even more specifically, I was a total geek and did not go outside much even within that city.

Unless it related to my Star Trek novels, computer games or math homework, I really couldn't be bothered, much less to go outside. So, fine reader you ask yourself: Why does my tubby, mostly-under-air-con youth have any relevance today? Well, on this trip I"ve effectively done some of the world's most famous, and best hikes. And I've kinda loved it.  It's pretty easy to see how this is at best, inconsistent with my past.  Truly, aside from loving trail mix (while watching Star Trek: The Next Generation) there really was no experience in my past that would have led me to believe that this is something I would enjoy.  That said, I think my version of enjoying hiking is a little bit different than someone else who maybe grew up with a more outdoorsy disposition. Basically the entire time I'm hiking I'm pretty convinced there is something that is going to kill me in every direction or even in the air! Some Examples:

1. Poisonous Plants: While hiking all plants are like land mines to me. Don't let exposed skin touch that one - it's bound to give you the flesh eating disease! Cactus pricks in Israel, Tall spiney grass on Easter Island, Peet moss in Patagonia - It's all gonna get me. QUICKLY.
2. Altitude: This is a big one. The feeling of being up at 4,200 meters or 5,000 meter is pretty shitty. Particularly for someone who has spent the bulk of their existence at or below Sea Level. Even more particularly for someone who is convinced they will have some kind of traumatic reaction to the lower percentage of oxygen in the air. I remember being at the border crossing in the Andes between Bolivia and Chile (this is without even doing any hiking - just existing!) and being convinced that the lack of oxygen will somehow cause of my heart/head/liver/face/foot to explode. It wasn't a good scene in my mind.
3. Rare Tropical Disease: Usually transmitted through various bugs, insects, creepy  crawlies, etc. Any bug gets on me and I'm pretty sure its got something that is inhospitable to my wellbeing.  Strange spores in the grass, etc. It's all carrying the Outbreak Disease.
4. Grass: Literally tall grass scares me. It's shameful! What could be under that grass! Any of the other stuff on this list for example!
5. Shit: Typically there is the feces of various animals out there on these walks. Usually I spend a little time thinking about what kind of diseases could be in this crap and how that could possibly make its way into my biology. On my recent trek around Easter Island I was pretty sure I could get some version of mad cow diseases. From the horse shit.
6. Isolation: This is the catch-all fear of nature that really gets me going when I'm out there on these treks. Basically, any thing could happen to  me and I am convinced that being a day's walk from civilization is the thing that will do me in.

So given all these things, Why Do I Hike?

I hike because I like stuff that is hard. Stuff that pushes me to challenge myself. Stuff that is active. I hike because there is a ton of stuff out there you'll never see if you don't use your own two legs to get yourself there. I also love the thinking time: this is time away from facebook tags, tweets, emails or text messages. It's legitimate quiet time. Maybe thats the best part.

Today I hiked to a beach I'd been to three times in the past week, each time by car. Each of those trips took approximately half an hour in the car. Today's hike was supposed to take about six hours, I did it in 4.5.  But regardless, even though I'd been to the beach a few times before, it looked nothing like it did today. The view as the beach finally revealed itself in the horizon was pretty great. And not just because it was beautiful. It was. But also, because I had a while to think about enjoying the beach before I arrived.  It definitely didn't feel anything like it did after trekking for five hours along the Rapa Nui coastline.

I hike because sometimes being in the middle of nowhere is exactly where I'm supposed to be. I hike because its important to me to get a different perspective. I hike cause sometimes a random bull along the path (as it did today) gives me a look that I know means he hasn't seen another dude walking along here all day, maybe in a few days.  And that look is pretty freaking cool. I hike cause I can. So in spite of all the fears listed above, I hike. 

My blue Dot is Nowhere

Licancabur Sandwich in San Pedro de Atacama

I like my sandwiches large and in charge.

Sunrise at Ezeiza Last Morning in Argentina

Around South America in 71 Days

So, its unfortunate but the end is looming for The Big Trip - It's been quite the ride already. And there are 71 one more days for me to shape how this thing goes into the books. It's going to be tough to top all of the great experiences I've accumulated thus far. But, I'm going to do my damnedest to make that happen. Here are the top ten things I'm Pumped About for the next 71 days:

1. Easter Island (That's right, I said it!)
2. Mendoza Wine Country (Wine is delicious. ‘nuff said)
3. Iguazu Falls (Time to get wet)
4. Rio! (Finding trouble here should be easy)
5. The Pantanal (Brazilian Wetlands and Wildlife)
6. Sao Paolo Lollapalooza (I'm a Lolla devotee time to hit up one of the S. American Iterations)
7. Some yet to be named gorgeous Brazilian Beach (Relaxation and sunshine)
8. San Pedro de Atacama (Gorgeous Deserts and Geysers and Salt Flats)
9. Valparaiso (Funky Fresh Chilean Coastal Town)
10. Bariloche Lake District (More Hikes and Gorgeous Andean Backdrops. Yes, please)
11. MAYBE: Bolivian Salt Flats & Chilean Wine Country

Ok, so there's 12 of 'em. What can I say I find it hard to color within the lines

Here's the stuff I think I need to keep in mind while doing it:

1. Say Yes
2. KISS: Keep It Simple Stupid
3. Be Now

I think the hardest thing is going to be to focus on right now, and not the end of the trip. It's how I operate normally (planning for the future), but I'm working on challenging those approaches as part of this trip. So, here's to focusing on the now and getting weird in South America for the next 71 days.

This might be my favorite Act 1 of TAL ever. LISTEN NOW.

http://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/494/hit-the-road  

Shanghai

I arrived 9 hours delayed to Shanghai due to "fog." Turns out, it was actually just the worst pollution day in recorded history of pollution for Shanghai. The reading on that day was higher than the scale had previously considered a maximum. Above 500. Here's a  very unnerving screengrab from a few days later, when the pollution levels had subsided considerably.  That said, the consensus is even at 167, we're squarely in the unhealthy zone! Me at the bund. With my breathing apparatus. 

Mari and I were really thrilled to be wearing these masks on our Shanghai Adventures.

Shopping for eyewear in Shanghai. I went with these:

Club 88 in Shanghai. Best people watching ever.

This is the view from Mari's apartment on the day I arrived (pollution-acalypse)

Same view, less pollution.

The Bund at Night from Captain's Bar:

Delicious Fried Pork Pastry. (And is was Kosher!)

This guy made me very happy.

This Maglev Train Goes Very Fast:

Me and my Baijiu shot

Hong Kong

Going out to the BIg Buddha was a ton of fun, check out the lady being carried up all those steps by her obviously brownie-points-deficient partner. The Epic Meal @ Lung King Heen

Walking around Hong Kong I saw stuff like this all the time. It made me hungry:

I love the sweater this dude is rocking on the Metro. He digs that G-Funk.

Yeah, fish sausage. What?:

This was the magazine they had for me when I showed up solo to the 3 Michelin starred Lung King Heen. Kudos to them for trying to think about my lack of conversation partner. But, they may have missed the mark by making the magazine about what it's like to own a personal jet. Yeah, I'm not the target audience of that place.

Obligatory tourist shot of me at the Peak. Kind of awesome:

India (Chandrashila Hike)

One of the things that pushed me out of my comfort zone the most on this trip thus far was my trek in the Himalaya. It wasn't all that long (4 Days), or all that high (about 4100m), but it definitely was a big push into things I'm less-than-totally-comfortable-with. Like, you know. Camping. And being really cold. Anyways, it was really rewarding and totally gorgeous. Here's a little about the place I was: Chandrashila is summit of the Tungnath . It literally means "Moon Rock". It is located at a height of about 4,000 metres above sea level

Here are some photos I snagged throughout the journey. Shout out to my trekking partner, Mia - she was a great thought and hiking partner during the four days.

The road we needed to use to get up to the trek start had been washed out in some pretty terrible landslides that happened back in June. Entire parts of town and road had been washed away:

This is where I camped on night one (also where that leopard was hanging out):

Some pics of the "Jungle" we trekked through to get to our second camping site:

I was pretty stoked to be out there:

I think this pretty much sums up what most of the scenery looked like on the way to the top: Being the city-slicker that I am, things like campfires truly impressed me. Here's a couple of pics of that plus our awesome guide Rohit, doing his survivorman thing:

We got to a point that the clouds kind of sunk into the mountains around us, it was kind of gorgeous:

Temple near the top of Chandrashila:

Mia and I early on summit day:

The ride back to Rishikesh looked like this the whole time (Bliss):

This is how I looked on the last day of the trek right after waking up, in the freezing cold and not having showered for a few days (I was thrilled with life I swear):

India (Rishikesh/Uttarakhand)

One of my first and longest lasting impressions of Rishikesh is how beautiful the sun hits the Ganga in that valley: White Water Rafting on the Mother Ganga:

On my first night at Seventh Heaven, I got invited to an Indian Wedding (As did everyone else in town, from what I can gather):

Pics from our kite-making and kite-flying event with the orphans from Ramana's Garden:

Right before gashing my foot attempting to "demonstrate" proper kite-flying technique. Lucy was amused, as she often is:

Vini (and Dennis!), my excellent Yoga Teacher during my time in Rishikesh, during the Orphan event:

My Friends @ Seventh Heaven. Enjoying one of our many meals and chats. Quite the Group:The Ram Jula Bridge looked crowded like this most of the time (see if you can spot the Elvis impersonator)

Rishikesh: Top 10 Thoughts to Remember

I think it's easy for me to say that my time in Rishikesh was one of the highlights, if not THE highlight of the trip thus far. There was a ton of amazing stuff going on with me while I was there, all of it pretty simple. However, I haven't really tried to document that time. Basically, it was a lot of yoga, a lot of laughing at immature things and hours of conversation with some truly inspiring + real people. I'll be posting some photos from Rishikesh soon (I Know, I Know, I'm WAY f-ing behind). That said, I wanted to share some of the great things my friends in Rishikesh reminded me to keep in mind as I progress through this excellent journey. Without Further Ado, My Top 10 Thoughts About How to Be Awesomer from Rishikesh:

1. Be Generous
2. Be Grateful
3. Be Real
4. Follow Your Heart
5. Be Fun
6. Check your Ego
7. Challenge Expectations (Yours, The World's, Physics')
8. Do. Not. Settle.
9. It is All Possible, Be Interesting
10. Be Uncomplicated

There are lots of similarities to things I've written about before that I'd like to focus on, but this list was compiled in the midst of some of the best times of the trip, and I wanted to call this time out specifically. Special shout-out to my co-conspirators from the Seventh Heaven Guesthouse that shared that time with me and contributed to this list. Those guys rocked.

Here's to keeping this stuff in mind for a long time to come.

Here's a pic, that kind of sums up how I felt when I was out there:

Laguna Esmeralda - Ushuaia

Homebrew served with our epic Nola themed dinner

Puerta Cerrada Restaurant

The Taj and I

India (Rajasthan)

So, it's taken me forever to write about India. And that's probably for the best. Well maybe not for the best that I effectively took a month off of updating the blog and documenting what I'd been up, but I think it's been good to let the Indian experience settle in my brain and heart a little before summing it up. I don't think I'll even try to do a full-on "this is what India was like" blog post. That is probably impossible. India was a lot of things. It was busy, it was dirty, it was crowded, it was delicious, it was challenging, it was beautiful, it was sad, it was really happy. It's a complicated place and I am thrilled I went there. The first thing I learned about India was that it is freaking huge. My initial hopes of doing a Big Tour of the country really were dashed pretty much out of the date. I was there about 6 weeks and that just isn't enough time to see "everything." There is a quote from this documentary about backpacking that I love: "India is where itineraries go to die." This is SPOT ON. The time in India broke down into Rajasthan, Rishikesh/Uttarakhand and Other.

The Rajasthan tour was tremendously productive, we saw a bunch of cities in a relatively short period of time. Something that wouldn't have been possible without our driver, Mohan.

Here's the top photos from my time in Rajasthan.

Red Fort in Delhi

Awesome door at the Fort in Jodhpur

Atop a Haveli in Nawalgarh

Amber Fort in Jaipur

Every Indian took photos with themselves in Mirrors at this Fort in Bikaner.

All Indians also took this photo:

Rat Temple (As gross as it sounds)

Awesome dude at Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur 

Jain Temple in Ranakpur

Cool Monkeys outside Jain Temple (Ranakpur)

Our excellent Rajasthan (and later Rishikesh) Travel Buddy Lucy in Jaipur

Crazy huge and heavy silver  water containers

Diwali in Udaipur

Jain Temple in Ranakpur

Business Class from Amman to Delhi (Two Months Ago)

Jordan Part 3: Wadi Rum

Things I loved about Wadi Rum:

1. Totally Unique and bizarre, beautiful landscape
2. The Rum Stars Beduoin Camp where we stayed
3. The group that was on our jeep
4. Hearing Akmed (the owner of the camp/guide) talk about life as a Beduoin and how that is changing because of technology and tourism. (Over alot of sugary tea of course)
5. The feeling of isolation you get being out there.
6. Climbing up the rocks! They're so sticky it makes walking up these rock so easy and getting to interesting viewpoints really fun and accessible.
7. Facing my fear of heights and climbing up to the arch and walking along the ledge to get the photo below